Jakar Dzong-The Castle Of White Bird
Jakar Dzong or Jakar Yugyal Dzong is the dzong of the Bumthang District in central Bhutan. It is located on a ridge above Jakar town in the Chamkhar valley of Bumthang. It is built on the site of an earlier temple established by the Ralung hierarch Yongzin Ngagi Wangchuk (1517–1554) when he came to Bhutan. Jakar Dzong may be the largest dzong in Bhutan, with a circumference of more than 1,500 metres (4,900 ft).
According to legend, when the lamas assembled in about 1549 to select a site for a monastery, a big white bird rose suddenly in the air and settled on a spur of a hill. This was interpreted as an important omen, and the hill was chosen as the site for a monastery and for Jakar Dzong, which roughly translates as 'castle of the white bird'. The Zhabdrung's great-grandfather, Ngagi Wangchuck, founded the monastery.
Jakar was the first place in Bhutan that Guru Rinpoche visited, and as the ruler of the region subsequently converted to Buddhism, Jakar is accorded the title of the birth place of Buddhism in Bhutan. In addition, one of most venerated and accomplished teachers of the Vajrayana school of Buddhism, Pema Lingpa, was born in the Jakar area.
The approach to the impressive dzong, which has a circumference of more than 1500m, is made on foot along a stone-paved path. The entrance leads into a narrow courtyard surrounded by administrative offices. The utse is on the east side of the courtyard, and beyond that is the monks' quarters.
At the west end of the dzong is a slightly larger courtyard surrounded by administrative offices. Behind here is a half-round ta dzong (watchtower). A walled passage leads from the dzong down the hill to a nearby spring – a feature that ensured water could be obtained in the event of a long siege. Even if the chapels are closed, it's a worthwhile climb for the views of the Chokhor valley from the front courtyard.
According to legend, when the lamas assembled in about 1549 to select a site for a monastery, a big white bird rose suddenly in the air and settled on a spur of a hill. This was interpreted as an important omen, and the hill was chosen as the site for a monastery and for Jakar Dzong, which roughly translates as 'castle of the white bird'. The Zhabdrung's great-grandfather, Ngagi Wangchuck, founded the monastery.
Jakar was the first place in Bhutan that Guru Rinpoche visited, and as the ruler of the region subsequently converted to Buddhism, Jakar is accorded the title of the birth place of Buddhism in Bhutan. In addition, one of most venerated and accomplished teachers of the Vajrayana school of Buddhism, Pema Lingpa, was born in the Jakar area.
The approach to the impressive dzong, which has a circumference of more than 1500m, is made on foot along a stone-paved path. The entrance leads into a narrow courtyard surrounded by administrative offices. The utse is on the east side of the courtyard, and beyond that is the monks' quarters.
At the west end of the dzong is a slightly larger courtyard surrounded by administrative offices. Behind here is a half-round ta dzong (watchtower). A walled passage leads from the dzong down the hill to a nearby spring – a feature that ensured water could be obtained in the event of a long siege. Even if the chapels are closed, it's a worthwhile climb for the views of the Chokhor valley from the front courtyard.
Lhodrak Kharchhu Monastery
The monastery of Lhodrak Kharchhu, situated in the valley of Bumthang in north-east Bhutan, was founded by Namkhai Nyingpo Rinpoche in 1984. Namkhai Nyingpo Rinpoche was recognized at a very young age by H.H. the Dalai Lama and H.H. the 16th Karmapa, as the incarnation of a Tibetan lama whose spiritual lineage dates back to one of the closest disciples of the great 8th century Master Padmasambhava. Namkhai Nyingpo Rinpoche was a close student of Kyabje Dilgo Khyentse Rinpoche.
The origins of the monastery go back to 1961, when a representative of H.H. the Dalai Lama visited Bhutan and advised the few remaining monks of Kharchu monastery, then living in exile, to uphold the tradition and the seat of Namkhai Nyingpo. Attempting to follow this advice, they remained together, striving to preserve their tradition until, in 1972, the present Namkhai Nyingpo Rinpoche was discovered and enthroned. Knowing that the survival of the Buddhist teachings depends entirely on those who have the fortune and determination to practice them, Namkhai Nyingpo Rinpoche felt the urgent need to establish a monastery.
Therefore in 1982, at the tender age of 16, he bought a small plot of land in Bumthang, central Bhutan, in an area known as Khandro’i Sanglam (the Secret Path of the Dakinis). With hardly any resources at his disposal, Rinpoche succeeded in constructing a two-storey monastery large enough to accommodate 70 monks. At the present time, the monastery complex includes a two-storey building in which there is a classroom for the Shedra (college of higher studies), a dormitory of 33 rooms, as well as a library and offices.
The monastery was small until the 1990s and the present construction was made possible with support extended by His Majesty the 4th King Jigme Singye Wangchuck and the Royal Grandmother Ashi Kesang Choden Wangchuck in particular and from other Buddhist supporters, Bhutanese and foreigners.
Its style is closer to that of a Tibetan monastery with its huge halls and the seats of the masters near the altar. Each hall is surrounded by the monks’ hostels. The paintings in the older Guru lhakhang are magnificent and are the work of the Tibetan monk in residence, Lopen Trashi Wangdi and his students. They describe episodes in the life of Guru Rinpoche according to his biography the Kathang Sertreng. The main statue is Guru Nansi Zilnon, a protective aspect of Guru Rinpoche subduing the three worlds.
The larger assembly hall (tshokhang) built in 2000 contains statues of Guru Rinpoche in different forms, the Buddha, and the great Tibetan treasure discoverer, Rigzin Goedem (1337–1409), to whose lineage this monastery’s teachings are linked. The paintings, finished in 2004, are very beautiful and are also the work of Lopen Trashi Wangdi and his students. They depict the most esoteric aspects of Tantric deities as well as lineages of transmission.
On the western wall, there is a painting of the Fifth Dalai Lama (1617–1682), who was very close to the Nyingmapa teachings and in particular to the tradition of the Jang Ter of Rigzin Goedem. The Fifth Dalai Lama also recognized the first incarnation of Namkhai Nyingpo. Since 2001, the monastery possesses a large religious banner (Thongdroel), which is displayed on certain occasions.
The monastery plays an important role in the daily life of the residents of Chamkhar village. A festival, the Trelda tsechu (5 month, 9-to 10th day of the Bhutanese calendar) is performed every 12 years (Monkey year) (last date 2004). If you're here between 4.30pm and 6pm (April to November), check out the mass debating in the courtyard of the shedra, behind the main monastery, where monks reinforce their theological arguments with a stamp of the foot and a victorious slap. Don't disturb the debates with your photography.
The origins of the monastery go back to 1961, when a representative of H.H. the Dalai Lama visited Bhutan and advised the few remaining monks of Kharchu monastery, then living in exile, to uphold the tradition and the seat of Namkhai Nyingpo. Attempting to follow this advice, they remained together, striving to preserve their tradition until, in 1972, the present Namkhai Nyingpo Rinpoche was discovered and enthroned. Knowing that the survival of the Buddhist teachings depends entirely on those who have the fortune and determination to practice them, Namkhai Nyingpo Rinpoche felt the urgent need to establish a monastery.
Therefore in 1982, at the tender age of 16, he bought a small plot of land in Bumthang, central Bhutan, in an area known as Khandro’i Sanglam (the Secret Path of the Dakinis). With hardly any resources at his disposal, Rinpoche succeeded in constructing a two-storey monastery large enough to accommodate 70 monks. At the present time, the monastery complex includes a two-storey building in which there is a classroom for the Shedra (college of higher studies), a dormitory of 33 rooms, as well as a library and offices.
The monastery was small until the 1990s and the present construction was made possible with support extended by His Majesty the 4th King Jigme Singye Wangchuck and the Royal Grandmother Ashi Kesang Choden Wangchuck in particular and from other Buddhist supporters, Bhutanese and foreigners.
Its style is closer to that of a Tibetan monastery with its huge halls and the seats of the masters near the altar. Each hall is surrounded by the monks’ hostels. The paintings in the older Guru lhakhang are magnificent and are the work of the Tibetan monk in residence, Lopen Trashi Wangdi and his students. They describe episodes in the life of Guru Rinpoche according to his biography the Kathang Sertreng. The main statue is Guru Nansi Zilnon, a protective aspect of Guru Rinpoche subduing the three worlds.
The larger assembly hall (tshokhang) built in 2000 contains statues of Guru Rinpoche in different forms, the Buddha, and the great Tibetan treasure discoverer, Rigzin Goedem (1337–1409), to whose lineage this monastery’s teachings are linked. The paintings, finished in 2004, are very beautiful and are also the work of Lopen Trashi Wangdi and his students. They depict the most esoteric aspects of Tantric deities as well as lineages of transmission.
On the western wall, there is a painting of the Fifth Dalai Lama (1617–1682), who was very close to the Nyingmapa teachings and in particular to the tradition of the Jang Ter of Rigzin Goedem. The Fifth Dalai Lama also recognized the first incarnation of Namkhai Nyingpo. Since 2001, the monastery possesses a large religious banner (Thongdroel), which is displayed on certain occasions.
The monastery plays an important role in the daily life of the residents of Chamkhar village. A festival, the Trelda tsechu (5 month, 9-to 10th day of the Bhutanese calendar) is performed every 12 years (Monkey year) (last date 2004). If you're here between 4.30pm and 6pm (April to November), check out the mass debating in the courtyard of the shedra, behind the main monastery, where monks reinforce their theological arguments with a stamp of the foot and a victorious slap. Don't disturb the debates with your photography.
Jambay Lhakhang
Jambay Lhakhang is said to be one of the 108 temples built by the Tibetan King Songtsen Goenpo in 659 AD on a single day to pin down an ogress to earth forever. A supine demoness was causing obstruction to the spread of Buddhism, and the temples were constructed on her body parts that spread across Tibet, Bhutan and the borderlands. The king was destined to build 108 temples known as Thadhul- Yangdhul (temples on and across the border) in a day to subdue the demoness that was residing in the Himalayas.
The best known of these temples are Kichu in Paro, Jambay Lhakhang in Bumthang and Jokhang in Lhasa, Tibet. Other lesser known temples in Bhutan have been destroyed. Jambay Lhakhang is located in Bumthang and is situated on the way to the Kurjie Lhakhang . It's a ten minutes drive to the Lhakhang from the Chamkhar town.
Legend has it that Guru Rimpoche visited the site several times and deemed it exceptionally sacred. Chakhar Gyab, the king of the Iron Castle of Bumthang renovated the temple in the 8th century AD. The first king of Bhutan, Gongsa Ugyen Wangchuck constructed the Dus Kyi Khorlo (Kala Chakra- Wheel of Time) inside the temple, to commemorate his victory over his rivals Phuntsho Dorji of Punakha and Alu Dorji of Thimphu after the battle of Changlimithang in 1885.
Later, Ashi Wangmo, the younger sister of the second king of Bhutan, built the Chorten lhakhang. The main relics include the future Buddha, Jowo Jampa (Maitreya) from whose name the present name of the temple is derived. The lhakhang also houses more than one hundred statues of the gods of Kalachakra built by the first king, in 1887.
During the 8th century, Sendhu Raja who was the king of Bumthang fell ill, and he invited Guru Rinpoche who brought Buddhism to Bhutan to cure him. Guru Rinpoche found out that the King’s illness was caused by the local deities including the powerful Shelging Karpo.
Finding the cause of the illness, Guru chased the deities into a cave, and Guru meditated inside the cave for three months. Guru then subdued the deities including the powerful Shelging Karpo and left his body imprint inside the cave, thus giving the name Kurjey (Body Imprint). Beside the Monastery is a tall cypress tree that is believed to have sprouted from the walking stick of Guru Rinpoche.
The best known of these temples are Kichu in Paro, Jambay Lhakhang in Bumthang and Jokhang in Lhasa, Tibet. Other lesser known temples in Bhutan have been destroyed. Jambay Lhakhang is located in Bumthang and is situated on the way to the Kurjie Lhakhang . It's a ten minutes drive to the Lhakhang from the Chamkhar town.
Legend has it that Guru Rimpoche visited the site several times and deemed it exceptionally sacred. Chakhar Gyab, the king of the Iron Castle of Bumthang renovated the temple in the 8th century AD. The first king of Bhutan, Gongsa Ugyen Wangchuck constructed the Dus Kyi Khorlo (Kala Chakra- Wheel of Time) inside the temple, to commemorate his victory over his rivals Phuntsho Dorji of Punakha and Alu Dorji of Thimphu after the battle of Changlimithang in 1885.
Later, Ashi Wangmo, the younger sister of the second king of Bhutan, built the Chorten lhakhang. The main relics include the future Buddha, Jowo Jampa (Maitreya) from whose name the present name of the temple is derived. The lhakhang also houses more than one hundred statues of the gods of Kalachakra built by the first king, in 1887.
During the 8th century, Sendhu Raja who was the king of Bumthang fell ill, and he invited Guru Rinpoche who brought Buddhism to Bhutan to cure him. Guru Rinpoche found out that the King’s illness was caused by the local deities including the powerful Shelging Karpo.
Finding the cause of the illness, Guru chased the deities into a cave, and Guru meditated inside the cave for three months. Guru then subdued the deities including the powerful Shelging Karpo and left his body imprint inside the cave, thus giving the name Kurjey (Body Imprint). Beside the Monastery is a tall cypress tree that is believed to have sprouted from the walking stick of Guru Rinpoche.
Chakhar Lhakhang
Chakhar is located the east of the new town Dekiling and Jampa Lhakhang, on the edge of the plateau overlooking the river and close to the royal guest-house. It is made of a cluster of three houses and besides a prayer-wall and chortens. It is the site of the palace of the Indian king Sendha Gyab, better known as the Sindhu Raja, who first invited Guru Rinpoche to Bumthang. The current building was built in the 14th century by the saint Dorje Lingpa.
The house dates from the beginning of the 20th century but was entirely restored in 1999 and two houses were added in the 2000s. The temple is similar to a house but has a golden pinnacle which signals its religious status. Made of stones, the house contains an elaborate private chapel and numerous books as well as masks for religious dances. Although it is easy to mistake it for a house, this is an interesting temple and worth a short visit.
The main statue is of Guru Rinpoche, and there are dozens of masks and black hats that are used during the Jampey Lhakhang Drup festival. Guru Rinpoche took Sindhu Raja's daughter Tashi Khewdoen as his consort – you can see her statue to the left of the altar (flanked by baby elephant tusks), as well as a photo of her stone footprint, one of the lhakhang's most prized relics. The original palace was made of iron, hence the name Chakhar; it was said to have been nine storeys high, holding within it all the treasures of the world.
The head of the family who lives at Chakhar is said to be descended from Dorje Lingpa and he bears the name of Chakhar Lama.This is a private temple. The Chakhar Lama, who is a well respected figure, takes care of the annual festival of Jampa Lhakhang, with which bonds continue to survive after many centuries. He also overlooks the festival of Nabji in the Trongsa district. The Chakhar lama is also a master in making masks for religious dances.
The house dates from the beginning of the 20th century but was entirely restored in 1999 and two houses were added in the 2000s. The temple is similar to a house but has a golden pinnacle which signals its religious status. Made of stones, the house contains an elaborate private chapel and numerous books as well as masks for religious dances. Although it is easy to mistake it for a house, this is an interesting temple and worth a short visit.
The main statue is of Guru Rinpoche, and there are dozens of masks and black hats that are used during the Jampey Lhakhang Drup festival. Guru Rinpoche took Sindhu Raja's daughter Tashi Khewdoen as his consort – you can see her statue to the left of the altar (flanked by baby elephant tusks), as well as a photo of her stone footprint, one of the lhakhang's most prized relics. The original palace was made of iron, hence the name Chakhar; it was said to have been nine storeys high, holding within it all the treasures of the world.
The head of the family who lives at Chakhar is said to be descended from Dorje Lingpa and he bears the name of Chakhar Lama.This is a private temple. The Chakhar Lama, who is a well respected figure, takes care of the annual festival of Jampa Lhakhang, with which bonds continue to survive after many centuries. He also overlooks the festival of Nabji in the Trongsa district. The Chakhar lama is also a master in making masks for religious dances.
Kurje Lhakhang
Located further along the valley, Kurje Lhakhang comprises three temples. The one on the right was built in 1652 against the rock face where Guru Padmasambhava meditated in the 8th century. The middle temple is built on the site of a cave containing a rock with the imprint of the Guru’s body, and is therefore considered to be the most holy.
The temple on the left was built in the 1990s by H.M. Ashi Kesang Wangmo Wangchuck, Grand-Queen Mother. These three temples are surrounded by a 108 chorten wall. Kurjey Lhakhang means temple of the body print: kur (body), jey (print), lha (God), khang (house). The Tibetan and Bhutan lhakhangs are temples or crypts, often they are subterranean temples.
The Indian Sendha Gyab conquered Bumthang, became the king of Bumthang, and was called Sindhu Raja. Once he was in war with a neighbouring king, Naochhe (Big Nose), in the south of Bhutan. When Naochhe killed Sindhu Raja's son and 16 of his attendands he became very angry, and in his fury he desecrated the abode of the highest diety of Bumthang, Shelging Kharpo. Now Shelging Kharpo became angry and stole the life force of the King.
The skies became dark and the king was very close to death. One of the secretaries of the king went to India and asked Padmasambhava to come to Bumthang and save Sindhu Raja. He agreed and in the year 746 he made his first visit to Bhutan. When he arrived at Bumthang, he found a cave where he meditated. This meditation left an imprint of his body, so the place was later named Kurjey.
The Princess Tashi Khuedon was the daughter of King Sindhu Raja. She was offered Padmasambhava as his wife for his help. But he sent her with a golden ewer to get water. Then he transformed into all eight of his manifestations at the same time and the eight started to dance in the field.
Every local diety appeared to watch this spectacle, but not Shelging Kharpo. When the princess reappeared Padmasambhava transformed her into five identical princesses, each one withe a golden ewer. The reflections of the sunlight in the golden ewer finally attracted the attention of Shelging Kharpo. He appeared in the form of a white snow lion.
Padmasambhava transformed into a garuda and fought with Shelging Kharpo. When he won, he returned Sindhu Raja life force, immediately recovered. He convinced Shelging Kharpo to become a protective buddhist diety, and sealed this agreement by sticking his staff into the ground. The staff started to grom an became a cypress, and until today cypress trees grow at this place.
Finally he converted both rival kings to Buddhism, and convinced them to make peace. They sealed the peace treaty at Nabji in the Black Mountains. The place is today marked by a stone pillar.
The first building on the right (east) is the oldest and was built on the rock where Guru Rinpoche meditated by King Sendha of Bumthang after his conversion to Buddhism. Its structure was rebuilt by Minjur Tenpa in 1652 while he was Trongsa Penlop and before he became the 3rd Desi of Bhutan.
The second building called the Sampa lhundrup temple was built in 1900 by Ugyen Wangchuck, the First King, while he was still the Penlop of Trongsa. The temple was built to house a monumental statue of Guru Rinpoche which was modelled after the advice of the great Nyingmapa lama, the Bakha Trulku, Rigzin Khamsum Yondrol.
A third building, the Ka Gon Phur sum lhakhang, was consecrated in June 1990 by the great master Dilgo Khyentse Rinpoche (d.1991). The construction of the new Lhakhang at Kurje was undertaken by Mayum Chonying Wangmo Dorji and the then Queen Mother, now the Royal Grand-mother Ashi Kesang Choeden Wangchuck in keeping with the 4th King’s wishes to build a sacred image of the deity Palchen Heruka while her mother Mayum Chonying Wangmo Dorji had also wished to construct a similar big image of Dorji Phurpa (Vajrakila) at this holy spot.
Dilgo Khyentse Rinpoche then advised the then Queen Mother, now the Royal Grand-mother to build a temple of Ka-Gong-Phur-Sum (three esoteric teachings of Kagye, Gongdue and Phurpa) on this sacred place. Thus the construction started in1984 in dedication to all the past Kings of Bhutan, and to Gongzim Ugyen Dorji, Gongzim Sonam Tobgye Dorji and Lyonchen Jigme Palden Dorji, and with deepest prayers for the long life and successful reign of the 4th Druk Gyalpo Jigme Singye Wangchuck, and for the eternal happiness and well-being of the Kingdom of Bhutan in particular and all sentient beings in general.
It is the biggest and most elaborate Ka-Gong-Phur-Sum Temple of the Terma Nyingma tradition. Ka-Gong-Phur-Sum literally means Three Mystic Revelations of The Eight Pronouncements (Kagye), Abhipraya Samaja (Gongdue) and Vajra Kilaya (Phurpa).
The Royal Grandmother, Ashi Kesang Choeden Wangchuck, also commissioned 108 chortens carved out of stones and placed at regular intervals on the top of the enclosure. These Chortens are known as Duduel or Jangchub Chortens and represent the Mind of all the Buddhas, and the steps towards spiritual enlightenment.
They are symbols that commemorate Buddha’s victory over evil forces and the absolute purity of his enlightenment. They enclose the Kurje complex, transforming it into a three-dimensional mandala along a pattern set by the Samye Monastery in Tibet. In front of the buildings there are three large chortens, one of them made up of a heap of stones which are dedicated to the three Kings of Bhutan.
A little away from the main complex but facing it and on the footpath to Jampa Lhakhang, the Royal Grandmother Ashi Kesang Choeden Wangchuck, commissioned yet another beautiful temple which was consecrated in the Summer 2008. The temple was inspired and designed in 1988 by Dilgo Khyentse Rinpoche according to the Zangdopelri, Guru Rinpoche’s paradise, and Mayum Choying Wangmo Dorji (d.1994) had offered to be the patron. Unfortunately both passed away and Ashi Kesang Choeden Wangchuck decided to take over the merituous task.
The temple was built in memory of Ashi Kesang Choeden Wangchuck’s Grandfather, Gongzim Ugyen Dorji, of her grand aunt Ani Thukten Wangmo and her parents, Gongzim Sonam Tobgye Dorji and Mayum Choying Wangmo Dorji (d.1994). The construction was carried out under the supervision of Geylong Nyabji Thinley Gyeltshen.
Kurje is a very important place of pilgrimage for the Bhutanese as well as the Buddhist from all over the world. The caretakers of the temples are usually from the Trongsa monastic community. Some of the monks from Trongsa dzong spend the summer at Kurje and perform numerous rituals including a Tsechu festival on the 10th day of the 5th Bhutanese month when a thangka is unfurled.
Since 1990, the Royal Grandmother Ashi Kesang Choeden Wangchuck sponsors in the 4th Bhutanese month a ceremony (Grub) for the well-being of the Kings and the country in the Ka Gon Phur sum lhakhang. The kings and some royal family members are cremated in Kurje.
The popular Kurjey tsechu is held in June and includes a masked dance that dramatises Guru Rinpoche's defeat of Shelging Kharpo. A large thangka, called Guru Tshengye Thondrol, depicting the eight manifestations of Guru Rinpoche, is unfurled in the early morning before the dances, which are performed by the monks from Trongsa.
The temple on the left was built in the 1990s by H.M. Ashi Kesang Wangmo Wangchuck, Grand-Queen Mother. These three temples are surrounded by a 108 chorten wall. Kurjey Lhakhang means temple of the body print: kur (body), jey (print), lha (God), khang (house). The Tibetan and Bhutan lhakhangs are temples or crypts, often they are subterranean temples.
The Indian Sendha Gyab conquered Bumthang, became the king of Bumthang, and was called Sindhu Raja. Once he was in war with a neighbouring king, Naochhe (Big Nose), in the south of Bhutan. When Naochhe killed Sindhu Raja's son and 16 of his attendands he became very angry, and in his fury he desecrated the abode of the highest diety of Bumthang, Shelging Kharpo. Now Shelging Kharpo became angry and stole the life force of the King.
The skies became dark and the king was very close to death. One of the secretaries of the king went to India and asked Padmasambhava to come to Bumthang and save Sindhu Raja. He agreed and in the year 746 he made his first visit to Bhutan. When he arrived at Bumthang, he found a cave where he meditated. This meditation left an imprint of his body, so the place was later named Kurjey.
The Princess Tashi Khuedon was the daughter of King Sindhu Raja. She was offered Padmasambhava as his wife for his help. But he sent her with a golden ewer to get water. Then he transformed into all eight of his manifestations at the same time and the eight started to dance in the field.
Every local diety appeared to watch this spectacle, but not Shelging Kharpo. When the princess reappeared Padmasambhava transformed her into five identical princesses, each one withe a golden ewer. The reflections of the sunlight in the golden ewer finally attracted the attention of Shelging Kharpo. He appeared in the form of a white snow lion.
Padmasambhava transformed into a garuda and fought with Shelging Kharpo. When he won, he returned Sindhu Raja life force, immediately recovered. He convinced Shelging Kharpo to become a protective buddhist diety, and sealed this agreement by sticking his staff into the ground. The staff started to grom an became a cypress, and until today cypress trees grow at this place.
Finally he converted both rival kings to Buddhism, and convinced them to make peace. They sealed the peace treaty at Nabji in the Black Mountains. The place is today marked by a stone pillar.
The first building on the right (east) is the oldest and was built on the rock where Guru Rinpoche meditated by King Sendha of Bumthang after his conversion to Buddhism. Its structure was rebuilt by Minjur Tenpa in 1652 while he was Trongsa Penlop and before he became the 3rd Desi of Bhutan.
The second building called the Sampa lhundrup temple was built in 1900 by Ugyen Wangchuck, the First King, while he was still the Penlop of Trongsa. The temple was built to house a monumental statue of Guru Rinpoche which was modelled after the advice of the great Nyingmapa lama, the Bakha Trulku, Rigzin Khamsum Yondrol.
A third building, the Ka Gon Phur sum lhakhang, was consecrated in June 1990 by the great master Dilgo Khyentse Rinpoche (d.1991). The construction of the new Lhakhang at Kurje was undertaken by Mayum Chonying Wangmo Dorji and the then Queen Mother, now the Royal Grand-mother Ashi Kesang Choeden Wangchuck in keeping with the 4th King’s wishes to build a sacred image of the deity Palchen Heruka while her mother Mayum Chonying Wangmo Dorji had also wished to construct a similar big image of Dorji Phurpa (Vajrakila) at this holy spot.
Dilgo Khyentse Rinpoche then advised the then Queen Mother, now the Royal Grand-mother to build a temple of Ka-Gong-Phur-Sum (three esoteric teachings of Kagye, Gongdue and Phurpa) on this sacred place. Thus the construction started in1984 in dedication to all the past Kings of Bhutan, and to Gongzim Ugyen Dorji, Gongzim Sonam Tobgye Dorji and Lyonchen Jigme Palden Dorji, and with deepest prayers for the long life and successful reign of the 4th Druk Gyalpo Jigme Singye Wangchuck, and for the eternal happiness and well-being of the Kingdom of Bhutan in particular and all sentient beings in general.
It is the biggest and most elaborate Ka-Gong-Phur-Sum Temple of the Terma Nyingma tradition. Ka-Gong-Phur-Sum literally means Three Mystic Revelations of The Eight Pronouncements (Kagye), Abhipraya Samaja (Gongdue) and Vajra Kilaya (Phurpa).
The Royal Grandmother, Ashi Kesang Choeden Wangchuck, also commissioned 108 chortens carved out of stones and placed at regular intervals on the top of the enclosure. These Chortens are known as Duduel or Jangchub Chortens and represent the Mind of all the Buddhas, and the steps towards spiritual enlightenment.
They are symbols that commemorate Buddha’s victory over evil forces and the absolute purity of his enlightenment. They enclose the Kurje complex, transforming it into a three-dimensional mandala along a pattern set by the Samye Monastery in Tibet. In front of the buildings there are three large chortens, one of them made up of a heap of stones which are dedicated to the three Kings of Bhutan.
A little away from the main complex but facing it and on the footpath to Jampa Lhakhang, the Royal Grandmother Ashi Kesang Choeden Wangchuck, commissioned yet another beautiful temple which was consecrated in the Summer 2008. The temple was inspired and designed in 1988 by Dilgo Khyentse Rinpoche according to the Zangdopelri, Guru Rinpoche’s paradise, and Mayum Choying Wangmo Dorji (d.1994) had offered to be the patron. Unfortunately both passed away and Ashi Kesang Choeden Wangchuck decided to take over the merituous task.
The temple was built in memory of Ashi Kesang Choeden Wangchuck’s Grandfather, Gongzim Ugyen Dorji, of her grand aunt Ani Thukten Wangmo and her parents, Gongzim Sonam Tobgye Dorji and Mayum Choying Wangmo Dorji (d.1994). The construction was carried out under the supervision of Geylong Nyabji Thinley Gyeltshen.
Kurje is a very important place of pilgrimage for the Bhutanese as well as the Buddhist from all over the world. The caretakers of the temples are usually from the Trongsa monastic community. Some of the monks from Trongsa dzong spend the summer at Kurje and perform numerous rituals including a Tsechu festival on the 10th day of the 5th Bhutanese month when a thangka is unfurled.
Since 1990, the Royal Grandmother Ashi Kesang Choeden Wangchuck sponsors in the 4th Bhutanese month a ceremony (Grub) for the well-being of the Kings and the country in the Ka Gon Phur sum lhakhang. The kings and some royal family members are cremated in Kurje.
The popular Kurjey tsechu is held in June and includes a masked dance that dramatises Guru Rinpoche's defeat of Shelging Kharpo. A large thangka, called Guru Tshengye Thondrol, depicting the eight manifestations of Guru Rinpoche, is unfurled in the early morning before the dances, which are performed by the monks from Trongsa.
Tamshing Lhundrup Choling
Located across the river from Kurje Lhakhang, this temple was founded in 1501 by Terton Pema Lingpa, a re-incarnation of Guru Padmasambhava. There are very old religious paintings around the inner walls of the temple, which was restored at the end of the 19th century. Tamshing is a small one-storey temple surrounded by monastic and village dwellings.
A little bit north of Tamshing, a footbridge crosses the river and from there, it is only a ten-minute walk to Kurje. Today, the monastery suffers from precarious conditions of conservation. Amongst other problems, due to roof leakages, the wall paintings are now becoming detached from the mud plaster of the walls and require urgent restoration.
Tamshing, is one of the most historically, spiritually and culturally significant monasteries in Bhutan. Built in the early sixteenth century, it has maintained living Vajrayana Buddhist traditions for over five hundred years. The founder of Tamshing, Pema Lingpa (1450 – 1521), is considered a great saint and spiritual master in both the Bhutanese and Tibetan Vajrayana Buddhist traditions. Moreover, Tamshing is also a great centre of Bhutanese sacred masked dance, and Pema Lingpa himself introduced many of the sacred dances that remain a vibrant part of the monastic dance repertory throughout the region.
Tamshing Lhakhang, founded in 1501 (completed in 1505) by Pema Lingpa, contains paintings of fundamental interest for the history of painting in this region. It is also, along with Gangtey Gonpa in the Black Mountains and Drametse Gonpa in the East, one of the only places where Pema Lingpa’s tradition of religious teachings still continues today.
The temple was restored at the end of the 19th century, probably at the time of the 8th reincarnation of Pema Lingpa, by Kunzang Tenpe Nyima (1843–1891), since he is the last historical personage to figure in the paintings. He was the first king’s uncle. The temple itself is made up of a vestibule and two sanctuaries, one above the other, with a path for circumambulation running around the sanctuaries.
In the 1990s a building and toilet facilities have been built with the help of a European donor, thus allowing the children and the monks to live in healthier conditions and from 2000, more buildings were restored through other Bhutanese donors. The temple is owned by the Tamshing family descending from Pema Lingpa, but the monastic school residing there functions independently and Tamshing is the seat of two incarnations of Pema Lingpa lineages, the Sungtrul and the Thuksey.
A small monastic community from the Pema Lingpa religious lineage which came from the mother-monastery of Lhalung in Lhodrak (southern Tibet) in 1959 settled at Tamshing. Today, the religious community of Tamshing consists of approximately 100 monks who provide training to the novices and members of the local community receiving schooling at the monastery and nearby Konchogsum Shedra.
In the 8th Bhutanese month, a festival called Phala choedpa takes place in the courtyard and unique ritual dances which follow the tradition established by Pemalingpa himself, are performed for 3 days. Tamshing is also a place of daily worship for villagers and many personal rituals are performed in the temples.
A little bit north of Tamshing, a footbridge crosses the river and from there, it is only a ten-minute walk to Kurje. Today, the monastery suffers from precarious conditions of conservation. Amongst other problems, due to roof leakages, the wall paintings are now becoming detached from the mud plaster of the walls and require urgent restoration.
Tamshing, is one of the most historically, spiritually and culturally significant monasteries in Bhutan. Built in the early sixteenth century, it has maintained living Vajrayana Buddhist traditions for over five hundred years. The founder of Tamshing, Pema Lingpa (1450 – 1521), is considered a great saint and spiritual master in both the Bhutanese and Tibetan Vajrayana Buddhist traditions. Moreover, Tamshing is also a great centre of Bhutanese sacred masked dance, and Pema Lingpa himself introduced many of the sacred dances that remain a vibrant part of the monastic dance repertory throughout the region.
Tamshing Lhakhang, founded in 1501 (completed in 1505) by Pema Lingpa, contains paintings of fundamental interest for the history of painting in this region. It is also, along with Gangtey Gonpa in the Black Mountains and Drametse Gonpa in the East, one of the only places where Pema Lingpa’s tradition of religious teachings still continues today.
The temple was restored at the end of the 19th century, probably at the time of the 8th reincarnation of Pema Lingpa, by Kunzang Tenpe Nyima (1843–1891), since he is the last historical personage to figure in the paintings. He was the first king’s uncle. The temple itself is made up of a vestibule and two sanctuaries, one above the other, with a path for circumambulation running around the sanctuaries.
In the 1990s a building and toilet facilities have been built with the help of a European donor, thus allowing the children and the monks to live in healthier conditions and from 2000, more buildings were restored through other Bhutanese donors. The temple is owned by the Tamshing family descending from Pema Lingpa, but the monastic school residing there functions independently and Tamshing is the seat of two incarnations of Pema Lingpa lineages, the Sungtrul and the Thuksey.
A small monastic community from the Pema Lingpa religious lineage which came from the mother-monastery of Lhalung in Lhodrak (southern Tibet) in 1959 settled at Tamshing. Today, the religious community of Tamshing consists of approximately 100 monks who provide training to the novices and members of the local community receiving schooling at the monastery and nearby Konchogsum Shedra.
In the 8th Bhutanese month, a festival called Phala choedpa takes place in the courtyard and unique ritual dances which follow the tradition established by Pemalingpa himself, are performed for 3 days. Tamshing is also a place of daily worship for villagers and many personal rituals are performed in the temples.
Konchogsum Lhakhang
4 kms north of the headquarter, Konchogsum Lhakhang is located on the left bank of the Chamkhar river opposite Kuje complex and very close to Tamshing temple. This tiny temple is surrounded by an enclosure. Like any ancient temple in the Tibetan cultural area, the sanctuary consists of a small central shrine which may have had a circumambulation path.
Konchogsum Lhakhang (called Tsilung or Choekhor in the texts) dates, according to the saint Pema Lingpa, as far back as the 8th century. The temple is supposed to have been built by the Tibetan king Trisong Detsen after receiving instructions fromGuru Rinpoche to do so. The king sent one Bami Trisher from central Tibet to supervise the construction and Guru Rinpoche himself is said to have designed and consecrated the temple. However another Bhutanese tradition considers that it is one of the temples founded by the Tibetan king Songtsen Gampo in the 7th century.
In 1039 Bonpo Dragtshel, the first active terton (‘discoverer of religious Treasures’) in Bhutan, discovered texts which had been hidden by Guru Rinpoche at this spot. It is said that the king of the water deities rose out of the lake beneath the temple and offered Bonpo Dragtshel a stone pillar and a stone scroll.
Another story in the oral tradition claims that the saint Pema Lingpa in the 15th century also discovered religious treasures here, which he found in an underground lake. He then sealed up the entrance with a block of stone and set his lotus seal on it. Both can be seen in the courtyard. Following a prophecy to repair the temple, Pema Lingpa undertook the renovation of Chokhor Lhakhang in 1479.
He mobilized the people of the valley to work on the project and invited an artist called Kungawo from Lhodrak, who restored the paintings. To fund the project, Pema Lingpa was told in a prophecy to extract gold from behind the Vairocana statue. This, he did in public only to reveal a thumb size wax figure of a donkey. However, the next day he found two tiny pieces of gold hidden in the wax donkey which miraculously turned out to be sufficient for gilding all statues and murals. The restoration took two years.
Several great visitors came to the temple, one of them being the Tibetan Dzogchen master Sogdogpa Lodro Gyaltsen (1552-1624). He noted that the locals call this temple Konchogsum Lhakhang “The three jewels” for its three main statues. The temple was gutted by a fire caused by a butter-lamp in February 2010 but the statues were saved.
This temple is famous for its ancient relic, a bronze bell (choedril), which bears an inscription from the eighth century on the inside. The chimes could be heard all the way to Tibet. The Tibetan army was sent to get it but the bell was so heavy that the soldiers could not lift it and they let it fall, which explains why it is broken. The bell remained in Bhutan.
As for the pillar which stands in front of the enclosure, it is probably an ancient megalith. Megaliths are very common in Bhutan and especially in this region. The main statues in the sanctuary are the Buddha Vairocana, which seems to point to the antiquity of the temple, Guru Rinpoche and Avalokiteshvara. There are also statues of the great Nyingmapa masters of the Dzogchen tradition: Pema Lingpa and Longchen Rabjam (14th c.). On the walls there were paintings of Guru Rinpoche as well as Pema Lingpa, Longchen Rabjam and Jigme Lingpa (18th c.).
The temple is an important historical place for the Bhutanese and it is also a place of worship for the villagers in its vicinity. It is looked after by a caretaker of the next by Tamshing monastic community. A school for young monks has been built in 2009 next to the temple and is attached to Tamshing monastic community which upholds the religious teachings of Pema Lingpa (1450-1505).
Konchogsum Lhakhang (called Tsilung or Choekhor in the texts) dates, according to the saint Pema Lingpa, as far back as the 8th century. The temple is supposed to have been built by the Tibetan king Trisong Detsen after receiving instructions fromGuru Rinpoche to do so. The king sent one Bami Trisher from central Tibet to supervise the construction and Guru Rinpoche himself is said to have designed and consecrated the temple. However another Bhutanese tradition considers that it is one of the temples founded by the Tibetan king Songtsen Gampo in the 7th century.
In 1039 Bonpo Dragtshel, the first active terton (‘discoverer of religious Treasures’) in Bhutan, discovered texts which had been hidden by Guru Rinpoche at this spot. It is said that the king of the water deities rose out of the lake beneath the temple and offered Bonpo Dragtshel a stone pillar and a stone scroll.
Another story in the oral tradition claims that the saint Pema Lingpa in the 15th century also discovered religious treasures here, which he found in an underground lake. He then sealed up the entrance with a block of stone and set his lotus seal on it. Both can be seen in the courtyard. Following a prophecy to repair the temple, Pema Lingpa undertook the renovation of Chokhor Lhakhang in 1479.
He mobilized the people of the valley to work on the project and invited an artist called Kungawo from Lhodrak, who restored the paintings. To fund the project, Pema Lingpa was told in a prophecy to extract gold from behind the Vairocana statue. This, he did in public only to reveal a thumb size wax figure of a donkey. However, the next day he found two tiny pieces of gold hidden in the wax donkey which miraculously turned out to be sufficient for gilding all statues and murals. The restoration took two years.
Several great visitors came to the temple, one of them being the Tibetan Dzogchen master Sogdogpa Lodro Gyaltsen (1552-1624). He noted that the locals call this temple Konchogsum Lhakhang “The three jewels” for its three main statues. The temple was gutted by a fire caused by a butter-lamp in February 2010 but the statues were saved.
This temple is famous for its ancient relic, a bronze bell (choedril), which bears an inscription from the eighth century on the inside. The chimes could be heard all the way to Tibet. The Tibetan army was sent to get it but the bell was so heavy that the soldiers could not lift it and they let it fall, which explains why it is broken. The bell remained in Bhutan.
As for the pillar which stands in front of the enclosure, it is probably an ancient megalith. Megaliths are very common in Bhutan and especially in this region. The main statues in the sanctuary are the Buddha Vairocana, which seems to point to the antiquity of the temple, Guru Rinpoche and Avalokiteshvara. There are also statues of the great Nyingmapa masters of the Dzogchen tradition: Pema Lingpa and Longchen Rabjam (14th c.). On the walls there were paintings of Guru Rinpoche as well as Pema Lingpa, Longchen Rabjam and Jigme Lingpa (18th c.).
The temple is an important historical place for the Bhutanese and it is also a place of worship for the villagers in its vicinity. It is looked after by a caretaker of the next by Tamshing monastic community. A school for young monks has been built in 2009 next to the temple and is attached to Tamshing monastic community which upholds the religious teachings of Pema Lingpa (1450-1505).
Mebar Tsho - The Burning Lake
According to the legend Terton Pema Lingpa had a vision of the sacred treasures that Guru Rimpoche had hidden within the lake centuries earlier. However the people of Tang and the local ruler were cynical of his claims. In order to prove his claims, Pema Lingpa held a butter lamp in his hand as he jumped into the lake.
After remaining under water for a long time he re-emerged holding a chest and a scroll of paper with the butter lamp held in his hand still burning bright. Thereafter, the lake came to be known as Mebartsho (the burning Lake).
The Burning Lake, Mebar Tsho is located along the way to the Tang village over the feeder road under Bumthang valley. It takes approximately thirty minutes drive to the Mebar Tsho from Chamkhar town.
Mebar Tsho is considered one of the most sacred sites in the region as it is related to the renowned religious treasure reveler (Terton) Terton Pema Lingpa. Pema Lingpa is considered an incarnated disciple of Padmasambhava who discovered treasure within the lake in late 15th century.
Today this small fresh water lake is a sacred pilgrimage site for the Bhutanese with bright multicolored prayer flags surrounding it and a small altar dedicated to Terton Pema Lingpa has also been set up. On auspicious days people offer butter lamps at the lake. Many tourist visit the site to observe spectacular beauty of this important historical and religious site.
After remaining under water for a long time he re-emerged holding a chest and a scroll of paper with the butter lamp held in his hand still burning bright. Thereafter, the lake came to be known as Mebartsho (the burning Lake).
The Burning Lake, Mebar Tsho is located along the way to the Tang village over the feeder road under Bumthang valley. It takes approximately thirty minutes drive to the Mebar Tsho from Chamkhar town.
Mebar Tsho is considered one of the most sacred sites in the region as it is related to the renowned religious treasure reveler (Terton) Terton Pema Lingpa. Pema Lingpa is considered an incarnated disciple of Padmasambhava who discovered treasure within the lake in late 15th century.
Today this small fresh water lake is a sacred pilgrimage site for the Bhutanese with bright multicolored prayer flags surrounding it and a small altar dedicated to Terton Pema Lingpa has also been set up. On auspicious days people offer butter lamps at the lake. Many tourist visit the site to observe spectacular beauty of this important historical and religious site.
Ura Valley
According to legend an old woman sitting outside her house was visited by a lama asking for a drink of water. When she came out with the water, the lama had vanished leaving behind only a sack. Out of curiosity, she checked the bag and found the statue that is now displayed annually. This relic has been passed on from generation to generation and is still owned by the descendants of the woman.
Ura village, lying in the highest of Bumthang's valleys, at around 3100m. Ura leads into the easternmost regions of Bhutan and is located immediately below the Thrumshing La (pass) at 3800m.
Ura valley in Bumthang is known for the famous dance known as the Ura Yakchoe. The dance is performed during a festival that is held every May. During the festival a sacred and important relic is put on display so that the people can receive blessings from it.
Ura village, lying in the highest of Bumthang's valleys, at around 3100m. Ura leads into the easternmost regions of Bhutan and is located immediately below the Thrumshing La (pass) at 3800m.
Ura valley in Bumthang is known for the famous dance known as the Ura Yakchoe. The dance is performed during a festival that is held every May. During the festival a sacred and important relic is put on display so that the people can receive blessings from it.
Dungtsekhar Lhakhang
Dungtsekhar is a small temple on the left of the road in Gyetsa village while driving down from Yutola pass into Chhume valley. The history of this temple seems not to be recorded to date.
Its humble architectural outlook reminds of the ancient temples of the 7th or 8th centuries but no research has been done to confirm this possibility. Community temple where rituals for the Gyetsa village are conducted.
Its humble architectural outlook reminds of the ancient temples of the 7th or 8th centuries but no research has been done to confirm this possibility. Community temple where rituals for the Gyetsa village are conducted.
Buli Lhakhang
Buli is located on a knoll to the left of the road while driving down from Yutola pass into Chhume valley. A rough access road leads to the temple, which is surrounded by a village. Buli lhakhang was founded in the 15th century by Choeying, the “heart son” of the great religious figure Dorji Lingpa (1346-1405) and extended in the early 20th century. From 2002 to 2005, it was restored by an American NGO, the American Himalayan Foundation which also taught conservation techniques to the locals.
The original temple was extended in the beginning of the 20th century and has the typical courtyard surrounded by outer living quarters of the time.
Buli has three main temples. The Jokhang downstairs has beautiful pillars, paintings and statues dating back to its construction. The two temples upstairs were restored in the early 20th century and have respectively, the Buddha of the Three Times and the Three longevity deities as their main statues. Both temples have good paintings.
Buli plays an important role for all of this part of the Chhume valley and holds a festival the Bula Mani every two years on the 16th day of the first month of the Bhutanese calendar.
The caretaker is appointed by the Trongsa monastic community.
The original temple was extended in the beginning of the 20th century and has the typical courtyard surrounded by outer living quarters of the time.
Buli has three main temples. The Jokhang downstairs has beautiful pillars, paintings and statues dating back to its construction. The two temples upstairs were restored in the early 20th century and have respectively, the Buddha of the Three Times and the Three longevity deities as their main statues. Both temples have good paintings.
Buli plays an important role for all of this part of the Chhume valley and holds a festival the Bula Mani every two years on the 16th day of the first month of the Bhutanese calendar.
The caretaker is appointed by the Trongsa monastic community.
Dechen Chholing Goemba
Dechen Chholing Goemba is majestic surrounding is a perfect place to have lunch. The monastery hosts a lively festival, the Shingkhar Rabney, usually in October. One of the biggest festival is a unique yak dance.
Shingkhar Village
The traditional village of Shingkhar, made up of only 35 households, is 9km up a good gravel side road and over the ridge from Ura.
There are several good hiking options in the valley. The easiest option is the two-hour return hike to the cliff-hanging Shamsul Lhakhang, which offers fine views down the valley. The trail starts from the dirt road 3km above Shingkhar. A longer hike leads up to the Singmi La, along the former trade route to Lhuentse, and multiday treks continue further through Phrumsingla National Park to Songme in the Lhuentse valley.
On the way back to Ura stop at the charming Somtrang Lhakhang, with its courtyard megaliths and a meditation retreat in the cliffs above the village. A footpath offers a pleasant walk from here directly down to Ura village. A three-day kangsoe festival brings the place to life at the end of the ninth month (November).
There are several good hiking options in the valley. The easiest option is the two-hour return hike to the cliff-hanging Shamsul Lhakhang, which offers fine views down the valley. The trail starts from the dirt road 3km above Shingkhar. A longer hike leads up to the Singmi La, along the former trade route to Lhuentse, and multiday treks continue further through Phrumsingla National Park to Songme in the Lhuentse valley.
On the way back to Ura stop at the charming Somtrang Lhakhang, with its courtyard megaliths and a meditation retreat in the cliffs above the village. A footpath offers a pleasant walk from here directly down to Ura village. A three-day kangsoe festival brings the place to life at the end of the ninth month (November).
Tang Valley
Tang is the most remote of Bumthang's valleys. It is higher than Chokhor so there's not as much agriculture here, although in places where the soil is fertile and deep the Arcadian scenes are picture perfect.
From Jakar it's 11km to the unpaved road that branches north up the Tang valley. This road climbs past the trail to Membartsho (1.3km from the turn-off) and the Pema Tekchok Choeling Shedra, a large nunnery, to reach the turn-off to the jumping-off point for the hike to Kunzangdrak. The road then climbs high above the river. After a short descent to the river it's 3km to a school at Mesithang and 1km further to the Tang Rimochen Lhakhang. The owner of the River Lodge in Jakarruns an eight-roomed rural retreat called the Mesithang River Lodge for those wishing to experience authentic rural Bhutan with more comfort than a homestay affords.
The road becomes rougher as it approaches the bridge at Kizum (Ki Zam), 22km from the road junction, where a dirt road branches over the river to Ogyen Chholing.
From Jakar it's 11km to the unpaved road that branches north up the Tang valley. This road climbs past the trail to Membartsho (1.3km from the turn-off) and the Pema Tekchok Choeling Shedra, a large nunnery, to reach the turn-off to the jumping-off point for the hike to Kunzangdrak. The road then climbs high above the river. After a short descent to the river it's 3km to a school at Mesithang and 1km further to the Tang Rimochen Lhakhang. The owner of the River Lodge in Jakarruns an eight-roomed rural retreat called the Mesithang River Lodge for those wishing to experience authentic rural Bhutan with more comfort than a homestay affords.
The road becomes rougher as it approaches the bridge at Kizum (Ki Zam), 22km from the road junction, where a dirt road branches over the river to Ogyen Chholing.
Ngang Lhakhang
A bumpy 10km drive up the Chokhor valley from Thangbi Goemba is the small region known as Ngang-yul (Swan Land). The site was visited by Guru Rinpoche, but the present Ngang Lhakhang (Swan Temple) was built in the 15th century by Lama Namkha Samdrup, a contemporary of Pema Lingpa.
Despite the recently renovated exterior, the interior contains some lovely statues and paintings. The primary statue is of Guru Rinpoche, flanked by early Buddhist missionary Shantarakshita and Tibetan king Trisong Detsen. There is a mural of the Zhabdrung on the side wall opposite the altar and an image of Guru Rinpoche on a lotus surrounded by two ducklike swans.
The upper chapel is a goenkhang, with statues of the 'Tsela Nam Sum' trinity of Tsepame, Namse and Drolma, with Chenresig standing to the left. The statue of Guru Rinpoche to the right was fashioned by Pema Lingpa himself. Protector deities lurk in the shadows. Hanging from the rafters are masks used in the three-day Ngang Bi Rabney, a festival organised in the middle of the 10th month by the two main clans of the village in honour of the temple's founder.
It's possible to stay overnight at the rural Balakha Farmhousehomestay right beside the lhakhang.
A bridge over the Chamkhar Chhu means it's possible to drive up to the lhakhang but it's a much nicer walk (two hours) from Thangbi Goemba along the true left bank of the river. En route you can detour to explore the 17th-century ruins of Draphe (Drapham, or Damphel) Dzong, a 30-minute gentle uphill walk from Ngang Lhakhang.
The long day hike over the Phephe La (signed 'Febila') to Ogyen Chholing Palace in the Tang valley also begins here, on what is called the Bumthang Cultural Trail.
Despite the recently renovated exterior, the interior contains some lovely statues and paintings. The primary statue is of Guru Rinpoche, flanked by early Buddhist missionary Shantarakshita and Tibetan king Trisong Detsen. There is a mural of the Zhabdrung on the side wall opposite the altar and an image of Guru Rinpoche on a lotus surrounded by two ducklike swans.
The upper chapel is a goenkhang, with statues of the 'Tsela Nam Sum' trinity of Tsepame, Namse and Drolma, with Chenresig standing to the left. The statue of Guru Rinpoche to the right was fashioned by Pema Lingpa himself. Protector deities lurk in the shadows. Hanging from the rafters are masks used in the three-day Ngang Bi Rabney, a festival organised in the middle of the 10th month by the two main clans of the village in honour of the temple's founder.
It's possible to stay overnight at the rural Balakha Farmhousehomestay right beside the lhakhang.
A bridge over the Chamkhar Chhu means it's possible to drive up to the lhakhang but it's a much nicer walk (two hours) from Thangbi Goemba along the true left bank of the river. En route you can detour to explore the 17th-century ruins of Draphe (Drapham, or Damphel) Dzong, a 30-minute gentle uphill walk from Ngang Lhakhang.
The long day hike over the Phephe La (signed 'Febila') to Ogyen Chholing Palace in the Tang valley also begins here, on what is called the Bumthang Cultural Trail.
Choedrak Monastery
Choedrak Monastery (3800m) is located high on the northern ridge dominating the whole Chhume valley. The main buildings are built against a big rock face. The motorable road stops at Tharpaling monastery and from there, there is a one-hour steep climb to reach Choedrak. Choedrak can also be reached from Lamey Gompa in Choekhor valley (Bumthang) by a very steep three hour walk through a dense forest and crossing a pass.
Several low Bhutanese style buildings are built around the meditation caves, which contain relics of the masters, and there are two temples.
Choedrak is mostly a hermitage used for retreats and solitary life. The monk caretaker is appointed by the Trongsa monastic community.
Several low Bhutanese style buildings are built around the meditation caves, which contain relics of the masters, and there are two temples.
Choedrak is mostly a hermitage used for retreats and solitary life. The monk caretaker is appointed by the Trongsa monastic community.
Tharpaling Monastery
Tharpaling monastery located at 3,600m is composed of a series of buildings overlooking the Chhume valley. A rough road starting from the Gyetsa village on the Trongsa-Jakar highway leads to the monastery in half an hour but it is often cut in summer. Otherwise Tharpaling can be reached on a 3 hour walk from Gyetsa village or on a 3 hour steep walk from Lamey Gonpa in Choekhor, crossing a pass above Choedrak monastery.
Tharpaling was, it seems, first established by Lorepa (1187–1250), a Drukpa Kagyupa lama from Tibet. The temple that he is said to have founded is a small building, lower than the main complex. In the 14th century, another temple was founded by Longchen Rabjam, the great philosopher of the Dzogchen, a religious movement of the Nyingmapa school. Longchen Rabjam (1308–1363) had to flee Tibet and lived in exile in Bumthang for almost ten years.
He built several temples there, including Tharpaling built in 1352.
The monastery is an important religious landmark of Bhutan, a monastic school where an ancient specific monastic tradition is taught, and holds an annual prayer , a monlam, in the first lunar month.
Tharpaling was, it seems, first established by Lorepa (1187–1250), a Drukpa Kagyupa lama from Tibet. The temple that he is said to have founded is a small building, lower than the main complex. In the 14th century, another temple was founded by Longchen Rabjam, the great philosopher of the Dzogchen, a religious movement of the Nyingmapa school. Longchen Rabjam (1308–1363) had to flee Tibet and lived in exile in Bumthang for almost ten years.
He built several temples there, including Tharpaling built in 1352.
The monastery is an important religious landmark of Bhutan, a monastic school where an ancient specific monastic tradition is taught, and holds an annual prayer , a monlam, in the first lunar month.
Pema Choling Nunnery
On a windy plateau at the entrance of Tang valley, about 5 kms from the main Jakar-Ura-Mongar highway, the nunnery is made of several buildings: hostels, classrooms, kitchen, temple.
In the 15th century, a prophesy was made by Pema Lingpa, known as the patron saint of Bhutan, that one day in the future there would be a great center of learning for women in the center of the sacred Tang Valley.
In the 15th century, a prophesy was made by Pema Lingpa, known as the patron saint of Bhutan, that one day in the future there would be a great center of learning for women in the center of the sacred Tang Valley.
Langmalung Lhakhang
The temple is on the right bank of the Tang river, 10 mns walk from the end of the feeder road and north of the valley. The temple was founded in the early 12th century by the Tibetan lama Ngoktoen Choeku Dorje (1036–1102) to whom is also attributed the temple of Takar near Tangbi in the Choekhor valley of Bumthang.
Langmalung resembles a large house. It is a gonkhang, a temple dedicated to the guardian deitiy of Bhutan a form of Palden Lhamo, called Dusoelma. It has impressive paintings on black background.
Langmalung resembles a large house. It is a gonkhang, a temple dedicated to the guardian deitiy of Bhutan a form of Palden Lhamo, called Dusoelma. It has impressive paintings on black background.
Ugyen Chholing Manor
Ogyen Choling museum is located in the manor of Ogyen Choling, one hour drive from Jakar. The site was occupied in the middle of the 14th century by the Nyingmapa master, Longchen Rabjam, who built a little retreat there. At the end of the 14th century, the saint Dorje Lingpa decided to follow suit and settled there. The original monastery seems to have been preserved up until the middle of the 19th century when Tshokye Dorje, the Trongsa Penlop and the 15th blood-descendant of Dorje Lingpa to be born at Ogyen Choling, built the manor which is seen today.
The museum was financed by the owners themselves and established with artifacts found in the manor. It was set-up with the hope of sharing this heritage with as many people as possible and preserving the structure as a religious and social centre. It is a labour of love and a testimony to a life which has disappeared, a unique opportunity to get a glimpse of the life in a lord’s mansion before 1950.
The museum also has a catalogue sold on the premises. Allow one to two hours to visit this museum and a guided tour is most of the time available. Entrance fee: free for Bhutanese, 200 Nu for foreigners.
The museum was financed by the owners themselves and established with artifacts found in the manor. It was set-up with the hope of sharing this heritage with as many people as possible and preserving the structure as a religious and social centre. It is a labour of love and a testimony to a life which has disappeared, a unique opportunity to get a glimpse of the life in a lord’s mansion before 1950.
The museum also has a catalogue sold on the premises. Allow one to two hours to visit this museum and a guided tour is most of the time available. Entrance fee: free for Bhutanese, 200 Nu for foreigners.